Day 4 - 11th August 2006
Patterdale to Shap (16
miles)
End of Day 4: 11 August,
5pm, Room One, Brookfield, Shap
I’ve had enough of this packed lunch malarkey. It would be OK if
they were all like that provided by Stonegate Farm in St Bees; sadly
the last two days have provided more for the wildlife in our
vicinity come lunchtime. We are going “do-it-yourself” from now on.
Today, first thing I popped down to the shop in Patterdale; ate two
bananas, two bread rolls, two bottles of water and a flapjack
between us.
The last two B&Bs we stayed in have had a bit of a pasting from me
so let me say straight away that Wordsworth Cottage (once home to
the famous Romantic poet), in Patterdale, last night was most things
you would hope/want/expect. I suppose if I wanted to be picky a big
room would have been nice; but in all other areas they have got it
just right. Comfortable, quiet room, recently decorated with modern
fittings, everything works and a good breakfast. They also have the
perfect location; lying in the valley down a quiet lane with views
of crags and fells on all sides. The thing that did it for me,
though, was that the lad of the house – and 11-year-old, I guess –
knew all the footie scores for the last few days; not just the
scores but also the scorers, goal times and, I’m sure if I’d asked,
the attendance figures. I’ve got one like him at home. Anyway I’m up
to date and with faith in B&Bs restored.
We were placed at breakfast in the window seat looking down the
dale. Unfortunately from my seat I could see the steep path climbing
up the side of the fell which we were shortly going to have to
climb; heck, it was steep; I had to look away and find ways to
distract myself.
Come 9am we were on our way (well, strictly speaking, it was six
minutes to 9am because although the Patterdale village church clock
was chiming, the hot local knowledge has it that the clock has just
started running fast). Another early morning long, steep pull; this
time out of Patterdale up to Bordale Hause then Angle Tarn. A wrong
path was then taken and we ended up on top of Rest Dodd. I’d like to
say that it had been a lifetime’s ambition to climb Rest Dodd or
that it had been all part of the day’s plan; unfortunately both
would be untrue. We recognized the mistake, made our way down by a
makeshift path and rejoined the correct trail. We bumped into others
aware that we were doing the C2C and who’d seen our (rather my)
error; I tried to make light of it and laugh it away; all I got back
were pitying looks and a “Do you have a map?”. Time to increase our
pace. More ascending all the way through to Kidsty Pike: stunning
views wherever you looked, then a long, often steep descent down to
Haweswater. Didn’t enjoy it at all: hard on the knees and, because
you had to watch your footing, difficult to appreciate your
surroundings.
Lunch on the banks of Haweswater. We then had a tedious walk the
length of Haweswater. The view of the lake was often obscured; just
trudge, trudge, trudge. I read recently that scientists have tagged
bees and recorded that some fly (buzz?) up to eight miles away from
home and can then find their way back; could the same be true of
flies? One fella kept me company throughout the Haweswater trudge.
Swat, swat, swat.
And then, just like that, at the end of Haweswater, the Lake
District is gone and we are into undulating meadows through to Shap.
William and I have a slightly different opinion on this, I think
this walk is well-judged, and stunning as the scenery and views are,
some three days in the Lake District for now has been enough for me;
it’s time to move one. William, though, who found the going a little
tough to start with, has become increasingly competent and confident
both ascending and descending the fells. He’d be happy with more:
another sign of growing assurance in his own abilities and
capabilities.
Weather has again been good to us. Throughout our time in the Lake
District, I’ve been conscious that if it had been hot or if
visibility had been poor the challenges would have been that much
greater. Into our B&B at 4.30pm; From our bedroom window we can now
look out and see Kidsty Pike way back in the distance; job done.
Somehow this seems to provide a nice symmetry with the start of the
day.
A lot of miles to cover tomorrow but less height gain should make
the going easier.
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